Some of you may know that I ‘played’ the violin for a short while back in a previous life (about 40 years ago). About a year and a half ago, in something that must have been like a late mid-life crisis, I decided that at nearly 60 years of age, it was likely now or never. I got out an old violin I’d been hauling around with me for over 40 years, tuned it up, found a music teacher, and can happily say I’ve been annoying people ever since.
As I’ve learned to play, I’ve developed a fascination with the art/science of luthiery. While perusing Ebay for repair parts, I noticed complete kits available, ready for assembly. I thought to myself, “How cool would it be to play on an instrument built with your own hands?”
The kit I settled on is one from a company called Stew-Mac in Ohio. While I’m sure most, if not all the parts are actually made in China, the comments on this outfit were virtually all positive, and many said they were actually quite impressed with the quality of the finished instrument for just a few hundred dollars.
I have no idea how long it will take, though I’m sure it will be at least several months my plan is to youtube the complete process from start to finish. You can watch the intro segment here. Feel free to subscribe to my youtube channel, and by all means drop comments!
Hi,
Did you ever post any step by step video of building the Stumac violin kit?
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Hi Tim. I can’t say that I did an actual step by step, but I did do several specific videos on my YouTube channel, @ThePrairieFiddler. I have learned SOOOO much since that project, so much in fact that I now know nothing. LOLOL. If you would like to chat or have questions about it, give me a call. 306.717.6735. Cheers.
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Well! Thanks so much for responding. I was a little reluctant to bother a professional with my goofing around project, but here goes. I don’t like the finish on my 2016 Chinese built Holstein Cannone modeled after a Guarini. I like the tone and sound but the fake antiquing just bothers me. So, contrary to ALL online advice, I wanted to remove the finish and try to make it more to my liking. I know this is totally contrary to all internet advice etc, and it did cost me more than it should have (I found out later!), but I’m willing to experiment.
But first I thought, I’d try building a kit violin and see how it goes finish wise. (I’ve done one other kit, a Ukulele, and it was very fun project). The Stumac violin kit is much more complicated but I have access to most of the specialized tools I’ll need, so what the heck, I’m retired.
What I don’t have (besides any expertise in this project) is a source for the right hide glue and the right varnish and or sealing then varnish process or ingredients. I think I can buy the hide glue on line but not sure if I should get ~200 or >300 strength. And I’d rather not use the spar varnish suggested by Stumac as a finish. Instead wonder if someone sells a varnish in small amounts they made in their shop. And as far as sealing the wood first, raising the grain, creating depth…..is there a general guide for first timers just trying to have fun but also not wanting to waste their time by creating a junky looking/sounding fiddle?
If my kit turns out ok, I’ll use it for my Maine Fiddle Camp instrument (weather not guaranteed while camping) and use any learnings to MAYBE put a new finish on my “good” fiddle.
Well that’s a load of questions looking for free advice!! I fully understand if you can’t respond. It was a nice offer you made to give me your phone number and I’d use it but I fear it would be too much of an ask.
Thanks Glen
Tim Callahan
Brattleboro, Vermont
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Hi, Tim;
No worries about my time. Like you, I’m retired and no, I’m definitely not a professional anything. This is a hobby/passion for me and I do sell the odd instrument. I really enjoy setting kids up with a properly set up instrument at a very reasonable cost. In the end, I kinda feel guilty because when I finally cash in, my daughter will hafta figure out what to do with all my tools and violins.
A few things I could pass along about the Stumac. The neck installation was tricky for a first-timer, and I guess in the end I didn’t shape the ‘holding area’ (under the neck where your left hand moves up and down) properly. At that time I didn’t know there was, like everything to do with violins, a strict shape/measurements, etc.
I think I ended up taking the violin apart twice to correct different mistakes. The most important was thicknessing the plates. It was a very dull, dead sounding instrument, and at that time all I did was copy thicknesses of a Strad template I found online. Even today, as a self-taught, YouTube luthier, I do have a little better way of tuning, but it is so complicated…
If I remember, Stumac suggested using a urethane??? Varnish. I did that, and ended up with a very blonde look that some people find unique and attractive. These days I simply seal with a very dilute hide glue, then I might give it a shot of really strong instant coffee mixture to make it a little darker. Then, I’m simply using the commercial varnishes you can buy from someone like International Violin. I was brushing it on very thickly, but now just rub it on with a cloth. Starting with a ground, then colour, then a clear coat. I’ve also been experimenting and practicing with French polishing, with mixed results. Mostly I do this on vintage instruments.
I got a bag of, I think, 300 hide glue from a fellow many years ago, and am just coming to the end of it now. I guess you can use rabbit and fish hide glue, and even bone glue. I think bone pearls make a VERY strong glue. I’ve never felt the need to use it. When I first began, I was making my glue mixes far too thick. If you watch a guy like Olaf the Violinmaker on YouTube, you can see his glue mix is not very thick.
There is much to be learned by building a kit. I know I could do a much better job on another but haven’t done it yet.
Regarding your current violin. Yes, it is sacrilege to revarnish a violin. But you know what? It’s YOUR violin. I’ve stripped and refinished some because they were just too ugly to do anything with. Working with a scraper is best so you don’t remove any timber if possible. One thing I’ve done that would make a real luthier cringe is use oven cleaner to remove varnish. I wouldn’t necessarily recommend it on your good violin, but I’ve never noticed any negative effects. The spruce timber seems to be fairly impervious, but the maple will suck it up if left on too long. Man, that stuff’s fumes are toxic. Lol
Anyway, I’ll deny I ever said that. Best of luck and contact me if you have any other questions. Let me know how things turn out.
Glen
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One more thing I forgot to mention… spirit varnishing is very hard, at least it was for me. There is definitely a skill to it. I ended up going with oil based.
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